The real attraction, thought, is most definitely its cafeteria. Pack into the shuttle bus at Port Authority and endure the bumpy and sometimes lengthy ride to Edgewater, NJ, and you'll find a cafeteria full of authentic Japanese cuisine from ramen to beef bowls. There's one exception: curry. But, as I discovered during one random Wednesday excursion, that curry can be found in one of the store's food vendors, Kayaba.

The Kayaba weekday curry special is just six dollars, considerably less than the going rate in the city. Your six bucks get you a ridiculously gigantic plate filled to the brim with curry and rice, considerably more than what those aforementioned establishments will offer. There are no toppings to choose from -- sorry, breaded pork cutlet fans -- but it doesn't matter, since what's provided is more than enough and then some. Aside from the gigantic portion, one will find huge chunks of potato and carrots in the mix, and meat lovers will be happy to know that nice cuts of chicken are also part of the roux as well. As for the sauce itself, one will instantly fall in love with the sweet flavoring, nice and smooth with a hint of honey.

Initially, one will simply have a ball with the pure spectacle of it all, but halfway through is when reality settles in. As pleasant as the sauce is, it's also on the thin side: I don't want to use the term "watery," since it's not that bad, but it's still easily the thinnest sauce I've personally encountered. The roux is very much on the mild side and there's no way to bump up the spiciness. You may find yourself struggling to finish the plate, not just due to the volume of food but the fact that it's just boring.

Still, Kayaba's curry has value. It's sort of like what you'd find at an all night curry house in Tokyo near a train station... just not one of the best ones. Still, definitely worth a shot, at least once. Just save yourself some room for Mitsuwa's array of fine desserts..

One such place is Sushi Ariyoshi, near Union Square. It's a fairly nice, almost upscale sushi joint that's reminiscent of what you'll find in the metropolitan parts of Japan, offering a multitude of sushi, yakitori, and udon dishes. The curry plates are only on the lunch menu, but if you ask for one in the evening, the chef will make it -- provided you pay an extra $2. This is a considerable sting given that the lunch prices are already a bit on the high side, from $8.50 to $10.50.

You do get a tremendous amount of food in return. The amount of curry and rice on Ariyoshi's plates is practically ridiculous, so come only if you have a completely empty stomach. You'll also find a decent handful of options. While most places only have one curry sauce, at Sushi Ariyoshi the vegetable, chicken, beef, and seafood curries have their core ingredients simmered for almost an entire day, giving each a completely unique flavoring.

You can't adjust the spice levels of each, but their beef curry is spicier and hotter than the chicken. But it's mostly on the mild side right across the board. (The only one I can't personally vouch for is the seafood sauce, which apparently features sushi-quality shrimp, scallops and squid, because I'm allergic.)

As for the curry roux itself, it's simply phenomenal: thick and rich, thanks to the prolonged cooking period, and a bit on the sweet side. I hear milk and apple are key ingredients, but I definitely detected a hint of honey during my various taste tests. Even in the non-veggie plates, there are nice thick chunks of carrots. And the ratio of sauce to rice is absolutely perfect.

When it comes to toppings, only two options are available, which is where Sushi Ariyoshi falters. The chicken katsu was fine enough, but the pork I had was a total train wreck. Maybe I got a bad cut, but it was extremely dry and filled with nothing but fatty tissue. It was enough to almost singlehandedly ruin the entire meal. Otherwise, Ariyoshi was a fine dining experience -- just avoid the toppings like the plague. Even the chicken, which wasn't bad, wasn't worth the added cost on top of an already expensive plate of curry and rice.

Imagine my shock and dismay when I finally made it back there the other day and found out that Rai Rai Ken had taken curry off the menu. Thankfully, my shock turned to pleasant surprise when I was directed next door to its new sister restaurant: Curry-Ya.

I love Curry-Ya's ambience. Countless noodle shops try to look like the stereotypical rustic ramen shack out of Tampopo, but I think this approach appeals mostly to NYU students looking to get a "traditional" Japanese lunch. It's a breath of fresh air to see a Japanese joint in the U.S. that looks and feels contemporary -- similar to the numerous 24-hour fast food curry shops that crowd around Tokyo's train stations. There's just one long counter plus a small space behind the front window for eating. During the day, it's a great place to have a nice, quiet meal, but at night, when the college kids fill the joint, it can become quite maddening and downright annoying.

But let's get down to business: How's the curry? The sauce is pretty damn delicious. It's no-frills and no-nonsense, an excellent textbook example of why Japanese curry is amazing. It's of perfect thickness, never watery. Each spice is distinct and complimentary to the others. Unfortunately, near-perfection comes at a somewhat hefty price: The original plain curry will cost you $7, which is not too bad, but the toppings add between $6-8 per plate. Yikes.

The Berkshire pork cutlet (pictured) is fairly fantastic, with some of the best breading I've tasted on this side of the Pacific. But it is it worth eight extra dollars? It's worth a try at least once, at the very least. For me, though, the cheapest topping is the best: the simple hamburger steak, a nice thick meat patty that's fried over a flame and finished in an oven, to avoid drying it out. (For $5, it had better be perfect.)

The curry isn't put directly on your plate: It's served on the side, in a small hot bowl, so it's piping hot when you pour it into the volcano-shaped lump of rice on your plate. When your plate is served to you, it's just the rice and whatever topping you ordered, along with a few green beans and plums on the side as garnish. The amount of rice I was given on two subsequent trips was inconsistent: It seems to range between "just enough" and "too little." If you enjoy drinking curry by itself, as if it was some kind of extremely rich soup, then this might be the place for you.

There's not much else to speak of regarding the rest of the menu -- there are a few side salads, the usual assortment of American soft drinks, one token Japanese soda, and Japanese booze. Like most eating establishments in New York City, Curry-Ya gets right to the point. It's no Go Go Curry, but what really is? If you find yourself in the Village, Curry-Ya is a solid alternative.